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Friday, December 30, 2011
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Wednesday, December 21, 2011
How to install an Amp
How to install an Amplifier:
1.) Disconnect the battery terminals: Just be safe. Do this.
2.) Run the power cable from the battery to the location of the amp or distribution block. (To read more about running wires, click here)
If you run it through any sort of sheet metal, be sure to safe the power cable with a rubber grommet, or some other protective device.
Be sure you have plenty of slack at both ends of the cable. This will make your life easier, trust me!
Be sure you run the power cable away from any Rca cables. I normally run the power cable down the side of the car that the battery is installed on, and run the Rca cables down the center of the vehicle.
Once the cable has been run and secured, leave it alone for the time being. Don't hook it up, cut it or do anyone else with it!
Be sure the power cable is secured with wire ties or some other means, But! Not until you have run the cable, and thought about that the cable is going to work out where it is located.
3.) Find a favorable ground point close to the amplifier
This point should attach to the vehicle's chassis, and be a solid connection.
Run your ground cable from the amp (or distro block).
Just like with the power cable, this wire should be secured and protected. It should not be installed in a location that will distress it.
Use a piece of sandpaper to remove any paint or halt from your ground point. Use it to also sand away any rust or residue on your ground point. You want a good solid connection, so you'll want to see nice shiny metal.
Prepare an appropriately sized ring terminal
If your ground cable is going to be attached with a ring terminal (the most recommended means), attach it now. Remember! Do a good job here. We're looking for a strong, solid electrical connection. If you can use solder, I would advise it!
Use a washer when attaching your ring terminal to your vehicle's chassis.
Finally, cover the ground point with something non-conductive. Also, Find some spray paint or halt that will safe your ground point from rust.
4.) Be sure to run Rca cables and the remote turn on!
Pull your head unit out of its mounting location.
If it's not already hooked up, hook up your remote turn-on wire to the head unit's wiring harness.
Determine which Rca cables will go to each channel on your amp(s). I find it beneficial to have a 4-channel cable and an added 2-channel cable for your subwoofers. This makes it easier to run all of the wires at once.
Run your Rcas and remote turn-on. Keep the Rca cables away from any sort of power cable, especially the power cable for your amp(s). It's Ok to run the remote turn-on wire with the Rcas.
Make sure all cables are secured and not installed in a way that will distress them. Be sure they aren't pinched, scraped or kinked during any sort of driving activity. In any places where they'll need protection, be sure to cover them with a tough material.
5.) Run all of your speaker wires.
Now it's time to run more wires! Run speaker wires from your speakers to your amp's premise location.
Just like with all of the dissimilar wires above, be sure they are secured and protected.
6.) Hook up all of the wires at the amplifier!
Hook up the Rcas, speaker cables, remote turn on, power then ground.
7.) Hook up a fuse owner near the battery.
Be sure you have this piece of equipment (and a fuse) before you even effort to hook your amp up to your vehicle's electrical system. Seriously!
The fuse owner Must be within 18" of the battery.
Be sure the fuse owner is connected solidly to the power wire.
Be sure you have the right sized fuse!
Be sure the fuse owner is mounted in a safe place, and the power wires are all secured away from any interesting parts.
8.) Hook up any special battery terminals
If you have any fancy-schmancy battery terminals, now is the time to be sure they're connected properly. Be sure they are collect and protected. Hook up any other of your vehicle's cables to the battery. If you can get covers for your new battery terminals, I would advise them.
9.) Reconnect the battery.
Put your shiny new terminals on those battery posts!
10.) Test!
Before turning your theory on, turn the amplifier gains all the way down. Turn on your theory and listen. Does all things work? How much noise do you hear? Is there audible distortion (If so, don't listen for long!) If everything's square, move on to the next step!
11.) Permanately Mount your amplifier
I hope that before you have gone through the previous nine steps, you have thought about how your amp fits into your system, and how you plan to install it. If not, I Beg Of You to think about this first. Outline out where you want your amp, how you'll get power to it, and what (if any) components will be installed near it. Also, don't be a fool! Be sure you've budgeted so you can unmistakably afford all things you need for your amp to be installed Flawlessly. Taking just a small estimate of time to think about this stuff will pay off for a plane install, and great sound. If you don't plan, you will screw it up.
When you mount your amp, you'll want to be sure you are protecting it from any sort of bodily damage and heat. Car amps are tough, but you need to be sure that you are installing it in a way that protects your amp from these hazards.
Soooooo, to safe your amp from bodily damage (because they are normally installed in places where they are prone to damage such as in the trunk or under the seats), it is best to build some sort of enclosure for it. This enclosure should be big enough to comprise the amp (and maybe some fans), as well as the standard wiring. You will also want to be able to unmistakably passage the controls. If you unmistakably like to tweak your system, you might want to make your amp rack unmistakably removable, but also keep theft in mind. Be creative on how to safe it. The truth is, you can get unmistakably fancy here, or just do something quick. Both will work.
Another thing to keep in mind when construction an enclosure for an amp or mounting the amp in a place that is hot or has poor airflow is that the amp will get Hot. Heat damages electronics, so you should Outline out a way to keep your amp cool and happy. Use fans, or even redirect the air conditioner!
One last thing about amps: I have found that if your amp is mounted to metal, it is sometimes prone to noise. I advise mounting your amp to a piece of wood before installing it. This will preclude any sort or weird ground loop effects that introduce noise to your music.
12.) Tweak!
Now that you've installed your amp(s), you're pretty excited to get rollin. Step 1: Be sure all of the amp's gains are down, the bass boost is off, and the crossovers are set to the exact frequency band.
Get one of your favorite Cds, preferably one that is clean sounding. I have found classical and jazz to work great, but alternative and pop work as well. Try to avoid unmistakably loud or bass heavy music. If you must, try to use a more melodic Cd: Not one that's just all bass, or noise, you know? The leading thing is that the Cd is representative of what you normally listen to, because it's Your system, and it's Your music. Darn tootin!
Step 2: Power on!
Step 3: Turn your head units controls to neutral. Eqs off, loudness off, fade and equilibrium centered.
Step 4: Turn the volume up until you hear distortion (you know it when you hear it, and go on to step 5), or the volume operate is all the way up. (go to step 6)
Step 5: If you hear distortion, back the volume up until no more distortion is heard. At this point, you know how loud your theory is gonna go before it starts distorting, sounding horrible, and smoking speakers. (Move on to step 7, and lower your volume!)
Step 6: If your head unit goes all the way up, and doesn't distort, you have a good unit that your amp can handle. Go to your amp, and while the music is playing, slowly turn up the gains. Once you hear distortion, back off a little. Turn your head unit's volume down!
Step 7: Now go to your head unit. Set all of the eq, loudness, crossover controls, and dsp that you want. Repeat steps 4-6 with all of these controls set to how you want them.
Step 8: Set all of your amp's bass boost or other controls to how you want them. Repeat steps 4-6 again.
Step 9: Once all things sounds good, you're ready to put a cover on your amp enclosure, and be sure your fans are hooked up properly. Put it away and forget it!
Step 10: You're in business! Have fun, and don't wake up your neighbors!
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Monday, December 19, 2011
This is How to Properly Measure Your Bicycle For a Comfortable Ride
I will be discussing how to measure a road bike frame as a mountain bike frame differs when measuring. It is important to properly measure yourself and the bicycle for a proper fit. This will allow for a comfortable ride when going long distances. Be aware there are many different methodologies for bicycle measurement that are too in-depth to go into here. I will be explaining the most common and simplest way to measure for your bicycle. It is always best to consult a bike shop as most shops will gladly measure you for the correct fitting bicycle.
Top Tube Length
The top tube is the tube running from the handlebars to the bicycle seat. I suggest measuring everything in centimeters as this is the standard for road bikes but keep in mind there are always exceptions where you will run across some older bikes listed in inches. Using a hard measuring stick, measure from the welds on both ends of the tube, take notice to be as precise as possible. If you have a longer upper body and arms you will want the top tube length to be extended.
Down Tube Length
The down tube is the tube running from the handlebar to the pedels. Again measure from the welds at both ends of the tube.
Seat tube Length
The seat tube is the tube running from the seat to the pedals. Notice this is the length that is given for bicycle sizes [http://www.spikedbikes.com] for most manufactures of road bikes. Again there are always exceptions which is why it is a good idea to always measure the bike for yourself and always road test your bike before purchasing your bicycle. If you have a longer lower body and legs, you will want the seat tube length to be extended.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Allen Deluxe 3-Bike Trunk Mount Rack
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Post Date : Dec 16, 2011 02:54:44
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